Dermaplaning prevents ingrown hairs by exfoliating the top layer of dead skin that traps hair, while any resulting bumps are caused by improper technique, poor-quality tools, and inadequate aftercare.
The Glow vs. The Fear
You’ve seen the videos— a blade gliding across skin, unveiling a silky, hair‑free finish and a pile of peach‑fuzz to toss. Tempting, right? Yet many pause because they worry: will dermaplaning cause painful, unsightly ingrown hairs?
Dermaplaning has become a go‑to exfoliation for its promise of radiant skin with almost no downtime. Still, its interaction with ingrown hairs is mixed. Online chatter ranges from “it causes ingrown hairs” to “it prevents them,” adding to the confusion.
Let’s cut through the chatter and answer a single question: does dermaplaning actually cause or prevent ingrown hairs?
We’ll break down the science, spot the risk factors behind those irritating bumps, and give you a clear, evidence‑based plan to keep your skin smooth and glow‑bright—without the ingrown problem.
First, What Exactly is Dermaplaning?
More Than Just Shaving
It’s a sophisticated exfoliation technique where a trained professional (or yourself, if you’re brave and well-informed) uses a sterile, single-edged surgical scalpel – typically a 10-gauge – to gently remove the outermost layer of dead skin cells (the stratum corneum) along with fine vellus hair (aka “peach fuzz”).
Dermaplaning uses a single, finely sharpened blade that slides low across the skin, avoiding the tug‑like pull of multi‑blade razors that can irritate follicles. The result is a gentle exfoliation that also removes peach‑fuzz hair.
The aim is simple: reveal a smoother, brighter complexion, soften fine lines and acne scars, and let your moisturizers and serums work more effectively. It’s like giving your skin its own reset button.
Does Dermaplaning Cause or Prevent Ingrown Hairs?
The Argument for Prevention
In many ways, dermaplaning can prevent ingrown hairs. By diligently removing that buildup of dead skin cells, dermaplaning creates a clear pathway for hair to grow out of the follicle without obstruction. It’s like clearing away the debris from a garden path, allowing new growth to flourish unhindered.
Think of all the dirt, oil, and environmental pollutants that accumulate on our skin daily. Dermaplaning gently sweeps away this debris, preventing it from clogging pores and trapping hairs beneath the surface.
Vellus Hair vs. Terminal Hair: Dermaplaning targets vellus hair—the fine, peach‑fuzz‑like hairs that sit on the skin’s surface. Because these hairs are so delicate, there’s a much lower chance of irritating the follicles than when you shave or wax the coarser terminal hair you find on your legs or underarms.
The Argument for Causation
Improper Technique
An angled blade or too much pressure can cut a hair bluntly or sharply, making it curl back and embed in the skin – the most common trigger of ingrown hairs after dermaplaning.
Individual Predisposition
Coiled or coarse hair increases the risk of ingrowns from any removal method, including dermaplaning. It doesn’t rule out the treatment, just means extra care is needed.
Folliculitis vs. Ingrown Hairs
Bumps that appear after dermaplaning are often folliculitis—a follicle inflamed by bacteria, yeast, or irritation—rather than ingrown hairs. Good aftercare usually clears the inflammation, but neglecting the skin can sometimes push it toward a true ingrown.
Your Ultimate Guide to Preventing Bumps and Ingrown Hairs
Pre-Treatment Prep is Crucial
To ensure the best possible outcome, it’s vital to prep your skin in the days leading up to your dermaplaning session.
Avoid using any other exfoliating products – retinols, scrubs, chemical peels – for at least 5-7 days beforehand. Over-exfoliating can compromise your skin’s barrier and increase sensitivity.
Refrain from waxing or using other hair removal methods for at least a week prior to your appointment.
Make sure your skin is clean and free of any active breakouts, lesions, or irritation. If you’re experiencing a sunburn, rosacea flare-up, or any other inflammatory condition, postpone your dermaplaning session.
During the Treatment: The Professional vs. At-Home Risk
Why Professional is Safer: We cannot stress this enough: When it comes to dermaplaning, seeking out a licensed esthetician or dermatologist is the safest route. These professionals use sterile, surgical-grade blades and are extensively trained in the proper techniques, including the correct blade angle and pressure.
At-Home Dangers: The allure of at-home dermaplaning kits is understandable, but the risks are significant. Dull blades, lack of proper sterilization, and, most importantly, improper technique are leading causes of nicks, irritation, and, yes, ingrown hairs.
The Golden Rules of Aftercare
- Hydration is Key: After dermaplaning, your skin is more vulnerable, so it’s vital to replenish its moisture levels. Use a gentle, hydrating serum containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides to soothe and protect your newly exposed skin barrier.
- Sun Protection is Non-Negotiable: This is always important, but especially after dermaplaning. Apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen every single day. Freshly exfoliated skin is highly susceptible to sun damage and hyperpigmentation.
- Be Gentle: For several days post-treatment, avoid harsh products, abrasive scrubs, and retinoids. Give your skin time to recover and rebuild its protective barrier.
- For Those Prone to Bumps: If you’re naturally prone to ingrown hairs or folliculitis, consider using a gentle cleanser or spot treatment with benzoyl peroxide a few days after the procedure to help keep your follicles clear and prevent inflammation.
Who Should Be Cautious with Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning isn’t for everyone. If you have any of the following conditions, it’s best to proceed with caution or avoid dermaplaning altogether:
- Active or cystic acne: Dermaplaning can irritate inflamed skin and potentially spread bacteria.
- Inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis: Dermaplaning can exacerbate these conditions.
- Active infections, cold sores, or open wounds: Wait until these have completely healed before considering dermaplaning.
- Use of medications like Accutane or blood thinners: These medications can increase skin sensitivity and the risk of bleeding.
- Important Note: Those with richly melanated skin and coiled hair should consult a professional to minimize risks of both ingrowns and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Conclusion: Technique and Aftercare are Everything
For most people, dermaplaning is more likely to prevent ingrown hairs than cause them. The key is that it provides superior exfoliation, removing the dead skin cells that trap hairs beneath the surface.
The risk of ingrown hairs associated with dermaplaning stems not from the treatment itself, but from improper technique, using poor-quality tools (especially with at-home kits), and neglecting proper aftercare.
To ensure a safe and effective dermaplaning experience, always consult a licensed and experienced professional. Ask them about their protocols for preventing irritation and ingrown hairs, and don’t hesitate to address any concerns you may have. Your skin will thank you for it!
FAQ About Dermaplaning and Ingrown Hairs
Does dermaplaning make “peach fuzz” grow back thicker or darker?
No, this is a persistent myth. Dermaplaning doesn’t change the hair follicle’s structure, genetics, or hormones. The hair may feel blunt as it first emerges, but it will grow back to its original state.
I got tiny whiteheads after dermaplaning. Are these ingrown hairs?
Likely not. This is probably a mild case of folliculitis from bacteria or irritation. It can also be clogged pores exposed by the treatment. Proper aftercare typically resolves this.
How often should I get dermaplaning to avoid irritation and ingrown hairs?
Most professionals recommend waiting 4-6 weeks between treatments to allow the skin to complete its natural regeneration cycle and avoid over-exfoliation.
