Dermablading vs Dermaplaning: The Ultimate Guide to Facial Exfoliation

Uncover the Truth, Benefits, and Expert Aftercare for Radiant Skin

Have you been curious about those smooth-skin treatments everyone’s talking about? If you’ve been researching ways to get that coveted glow, you’ve likely come across the terms “dermaplaning” and “dermablading.” But what’s the difference, and which one is right for you?

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about dermaplaning and dermablading – from what they are and how they work to who should (and shouldn’t) try them. We’ll also share expert aftercare tips to help you maintain that gorgeous glow for weeks after your treatment.

What Exactly Are Dermaplaning and Dermablading?

Let’s start with the basics: dermaplaning and dermablading are essentially the same treatment. The difference lies primarily in terminology rather than technique. Different clinics and skincare professionals simply prefer one term over the other.

At its core, this treatment is a method of physical exfoliation that uses a sterile surgical scalpel to gently scrape away the top layer of dead skin cells and remove the fine vellus hair (peach fuzz) from your face. The result? A smoother, brighter complexion that feels incredibly soft to the touch.

Unlike traditional shaving, which only removes hair, dermaplaning/dermablading also exfoliates the skin, removing approximately 2-3 weeks’ worth of dead skin cells in a single session. This dual-action approach is what makes it such a popular treatment for those seeking immediate skin rejuvenation.

The procedure is non-invasive, requires no downtime, and typically takes around 30-45 minutes when performed by a professional. It’s designed to reveal fresher, younger-looking skin underneath and create a smooth canvas for makeup application or other skincare treatments.

Dermablading vs. Dermaplaning: Unpacking the Key Differences

Despite what some sources might suggest, dermablading and dermaplaning are essentially identical treatments. As mentioned earlier, the difference is purely semantic – different practitioners and clinics simply prefer one term over the other.

To quote directly from one of our sources: “Dermablading and dermaplaning are the same thing, it’s just that different clinics use different words.”

Both treatments:

• Use a sterile surgical scalpel or similar tool
• Remove the top layer of dead skin cells
• Eliminate vellus hair (peach fuzz)
• Create a smoother skin surface
• Enhance product absorption
• Improve makeup application

So if you’re trying to decide between “dermablading” and “dermaplaning,” know that you’re actually choosing between two names for the same procedure. The more important distinction is whether you opt for a professional treatment or an at-home approach – which we’ll discuss in detail later.

What Are the Main Benefits of These Treatments?

Whether you call it dermaplaning or dermablading, this exfoliation method offers numerous benefits that make it a favorite among skincare enthusiasts. Let’s explore the advantages that have people coming back for regular treatments:

1. Smoother, Brighter, Rejuvenated Skin

The immediate and most noticeable benefit is significantly smoother skin. By removing dead skin cells and peach fuzz, dermaplaning reveals a fresh layer of skin that appears more radiant and youthful. This exfoliation process stimulates cell turnover, which promotes collagen production and leads to firmer, plumper skin over time.

2. Enhanced Product Absorption

One of the most significant advantages of dermaplaning is how it improves the effectiveness of your skincare routine. By removing the barrier of dead skin cells and fine hair, your serums, moisturizers, and treatments can penetrate more deeply into the skin. This means you’ll get more value from your skincare products after a dermaplaning session.

3. Flawless Makeup Application

If you’ve ever been frustrated by foundation that clings to peach fuzz or settles into uneven skin texture, you’ll appreciate this benefit. Post-dermaplaning, makeup glides on smoothly and evenly, creating a flawless finish that looks natural and lasts longer. Many people schedule dermaplaning before special events specifically for this reason.

4. Reduced Appearance of Fine Lines

Regular dermaplaning can help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The exfoliation process stimulates cell turnover, which has a natural anti-aging effect on the skin. While it’s not a permanent solution for deep wrinkles, it can significantly improve the appearance of superficial lines.

5. Temporary Improvement in Acne Scars

For those with acne scarring, dermaplaning can temporarily reduce their visibility by smoothing the skin’s surface. While it won’t eliminate deep scars, it can help diminish the appearance of shallow scarring and create a more even complexion overall.

6. Immediate Results with No Downtime

Unlike more invasive procedures that require recovery time, dermaplaning offers instant results with no downtime. You can immediately enjoy your smoother, brighter skin, making it perfect for busy individuals or before special events.

Understanding the Risks and Potential Side Effects

While dermaplaning is generally considered safe when performed correctly, it’s important to be aware of potential risks and side effects. Being informed helps you make better decisions about your skincare and know when to seek professional advice.

Common Side Effects

Most people experience minimal side effects after dermaplaning, which typically resolve within a day or two:

• Redness and Irritation: Mild redness or irritation is normal, especially for those with sensitive skin.
• Dryness: Your skin might feel drier than usual after treatment, as the protective layer of dead skin cells has been removed.
• Temporary Sensitivity: Your skin may be more sensitive to products and environmental factors immediately following treatment.

Potential Risks

When dermaplaning is performed incorrectly or by inexperienced hands, more serious complications can occur:

• Nicks and Cuts: Improper technique can result in small cuts or nicks on the skin.
• Infection: If tools aren’t properly sterilized or if aftercare instructions aren’t followed, there’s a risk of infection.
• Breakouts: Some people may experience breakouts after treatment, particularly if bacteria is spread across the face during the procedure.
• Skin Discoloration: In rare cases, hyperpigmentation may occur, especially in individuals with darker skin tones.
• Scarring: Though uncommon, scarring is possible if the skin is cut too deeply or becomes infected.

One particularly concerning risk comes from attempting to perform dermaplaning at home without proper training. A professional source recounted a case where “a patient decided to use dermaplaning to remove her facial moles. She ended up in the emergency room with an open bleeding wound on her cheek and a few stitches afterwards.”

Who Is a Good Candidate (and Who Should Avoid Them)?

Dermaplaning can be beneficial for many skin types, but it’s not suitable for everyone. Understanding whether you’re a good candidate can help you avoid potential complications and ensure you get the best results.

Ideal Candidates

Dermaplaning is generally well-suited for people with:

• Normal to dry skin
• Dull or uneven skin texture
• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Superficial hyperpigmentation
• Peach fuzz they want to remove
• Desire for enhanced product absorption
• Need for a smoother makeup application

Who Should Avoid Dermaplaning

Several conditions make dermaplaning inadvisable. You should avoid this treatment if you have:

• Active acne: Dermaplaning can spread bacteria and potentially worsen breakouts.
• Active cold sores or herpes outbreaks: The procedure could spread the infection.
• Sunburned skin: Already damaged skin needs time to heal before exfoliation.
• Inflammatory skin conditions: Conditions like rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis can be aggravated.
• Recent use of isotretinoin (Accutane): Wait at least 6-12 months after completing treatment.
• Thick, dark facial hair: Dermaplaning is designed for vellus hair (peach fuzz), not terminal hair.

Additionally, pregnant women and those undergoing chemotherapy, radiation, or hormonal therapy should consult with their healthcare provider before trying dermaplaning.

Professional Dermaplaning vs. At-Home Dermablading: A Closer Look

One of the biggest decisions you’ll make is whether to opt for professional treatment or try dermaplaning at home. Let’s compare these options across several important factors.

Equipment and Tools

• Professional Setting: Professionals use medical-grade scalpel blades that are sharper, more precise, and specifically designed for this procedure. These tools allow for more effective removal of dead skin cells and peach fuzz.
• At-Home: Consumer dermaplaning tools typically feature smaller, less sharp blades designed with safety in mind. While this reduces the risk of serious cuts, it also means they’re less effective at deep exfoliation.

Technique and Skill

• Professional Setting: Licensed estheticians and dermatologists undergo specific training to master the correct angle, pressure, and technique. They know how to adapt the treatment to different facial contours and skin types.
• At-Home: Without professional training, it’s challenging to achieve the optimal angle and pressure. This can result in less effective exfoliation or, worse, nicks and cuts.

Safety and Sterility

• Professional Setting: Professional environments maintain strict sterilization protocols. Tools are properly sanitized, and practitioners follow hygiene practices that minimize infection risk.
• At-Home: Maintaining proper sterilization at home can be difficult. Reusing tools without proper cleaning increases infection risk.

Results and Effectiveness

• Professional Setting: Professional treatments typically yield more noticeable and longer-lasting results. Professionals can also combine dermaplaning with other treatments like chemical peels or hydrating masks for enhanced benefits.
• At-Home: Results from at-home treatments are generally less dramatic and may not last as long. The exfoliation is typically more superficial.

Cost Considerations

• Professional Setting: Professional treatments range from $75 to $200 per session, depending on location and the practitioner’s experience.
• At-Home: At-home tools are more budget-friendly upfront, ranging from $5 to $75 depending on quality. However, you may need to replace them regularly.

Choosing the Right Option: Professional vs. At-Home Considerations

Now that we’ve compared the two approaches, how do you decide which is right for you? Consider these factors when making your decision:

When to Choose Professional Dermaplaning

• You’re new to dermaplaning: First-timers benefit from professional guidance.
• You have sensitive or problematic skin: Professional assessment helps avoid complications.
• You want maximum results: Professional treatments provide deeper exfoliation.
• You’re preparing for a special event: For guaranteed results without risk, professional treatment is safer.
• You can afford the investment: If budget allows, professional treatments offer better value.

When At-Home Dermaplaning Might Work

• You have experience with the procedure: If you’ve had professional treatments and understand the process.
• You have normal, uncomplicated skin: Healthy skin without conditions is less risky for DIY approaches.
• You’re on a tight budget: At-home options are more economical for maintenance.
• You want convenience: No appointments necessary when you have your own tools.

The Hybrid Approach

Many experts recommend a combined approach:

1. Start with a professional treatment to learn proper technique and see optimal results
2. Use at-home tools for maintenance between professional sessions
3. Schedule periodic professional treatments to maintain results

This approach gives you the best of both worlds: professional-quality results with the convenience and cost savings of at-home maintenance.

Myth vs. Fact: Will Hair Grow Back Thicker or Darker?

One of the most persistent myths about dermaplaning is that it causes hair to grow back thicker, darker, or coarser. Let’s set the record straight on this common concern.

The Myth: Removing facial hair through dermaplaning will cause it to grow back thicker, darker, or more noticeable.

The Fact: This is physiologically impossible. Dermaplaning only removes the hair at the surface level and doesn’t affect the hair follicle or root. The soft, fine vellus hair will grow back at the same rate and with the same characteristics as before.

As one expert explains: “Contrary to many widespread myths, dermaplaning does not promote, stimulate, or affect hair growth in any way. After your treatment, the only regrowth you’ll experience will be the same as what you had before as we don’t disturb the root.”

The perception that hair grows back thicker is actually an optical illusion. When hair regrows after being cut, it has a blunt tip rather than the natural tapered end, which can make it appear slightly thicker initially. However, the hair itself is not actually thicker, and it will soon return to its normal appearance.

Typically, facial vellus hair grows back slowly – usually in about 4 weeks – and will be identical to what was there before treatment.

What Happens During a Treatment Session (Professional & At-Home)?

Understanding what to expect during a dermaplaning session can help ease any anxiety and prepare you for the experience. Let’s walk through both professional and at-home procedures.

Professional Dermaplaning Session

A typical professional dermaplaning treatment follows these steps:

1. Consultation and Skin Assessment: Your esthetician will examine your skin to ensure you’re a good candidate and discuss your goals.
2. Cleansing and Preparation: Your face will be thoroughly cleansed to remove makeup, oil, and impurities. Some practitioners may apply a gentle enzyme exfoliant to soften dead skin cells.
3. The Dermaplaning Procedure: Using a sterile surgical scalpel held at a 45-degree angle, the esthetician will make short, gentle strokes across your skin, working in sections. Despite the use of a scalpel, the procedure is painless – most people describe it as a light scratching sensation.
4. Post-Treatment Care: After exfoliation, soothing serums and moisturizers are applied to calm the skin. Sunscreen is essential as your skin will be more sensitive to UV rays.

The entire process typically takes 30-45 minutes, and there’s no downtime – you can immediately return to your normal activities.

At-Home Dermaplaning Process

If you’re attempting dermaplaning at home, follow these steps for the safest experience:

1. Preparation: Start with clean skin and clean hands. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry.
2. Tool Selection: Use a tool specifically designed for at-home dermaplaning – never use a regular razor or actual scalpel.
3. Technique: Hold your skin taut with one hand. With the other, hold the dermaplaning tool at approximately a 45-degree angle and make short, light downward strokes. Always move in the direction of hair growth.
4. Sections: Work in small sections, starting with the cheeks, then moving to the chin, upper lip, and forehead. Avoid sensitive areas like around the eyes.
5. Aftercare: Apply a gentle, hydrating serum and moisturizer. Finish with sunscreen if it’s daytime.

Remember that at-home dermaplaning should be performed with extreme caution and only on healthy skin. When in doubt, seek professional treatment.

Aftercare Essentials: Protecting Your Skin Post-Treatment

Proper aftercare is crucial for maximizing the benefits of dermaplaning while minimizing potential side effects. Here’s a comprehensive guide to caring for your skin after treatment:

Immediate Aftercare (First 24-48 Hours)

1. Gentle Cleansing: Wait at least 4 hours before washing your face after treatment. When you do cleanse, use a mild, non-foaming cleanser and lukewarm water.
2. Hydration is Key: Apply hydrating serums containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid to replenish moisture. Follow with a gentle, non-comedogenic moisturizer.
3. Sun Protection: Your freshly exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to UV damage. Apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen and avoid direct sun exposure.
4. Avoid Heat and Sweat: Stay away from saunas, steam rooms, hot showers, and strenuous exercise for 24-48 hours after treatment.
5. Hands Off: Resist touching, rubbing, or picking at your skin, which can introduce bacteria and cause irritation.
6. Skip Makeup: If possible, avoid wearing makeup for 24 hours to allow your skin to breathe and recover.

The First Week After Treatment

1. Simplified Skincare: Stick to a basic routine of gentle cleanser, hydrating serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen.
2. Avoid Active Ingredients: Stay away from retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and other potentially irritating ingredients for at least 3-5 days.
3. No Exfoliation: Skip physical and chemical exfoliants for at least one week.
4. Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water to support skin healing from within.
5. Clean Pillowcases: Use fresh, clean pillowcases to prevent bacteria transfer to your newly sensitive skin.

Reintroducing Your Normal Routine

After about a week, you can gradually reintroduce your regular skincare products:

1. Active Ingredients: Start with gentler actives like vitamin C before moving back to stronger ingredients like retinoids.
2. Exfoliation: Wait at least two weeks before resuming any form of exfoliation, and start gently.
3. Maintenance: For optimal results, schedule professional dermaplaning every 3-4 weeks, or perform at-home maintenance as needed.

By following these aftercare guidelines, you’ll extend the benefits of your dermaplaning treatment and keep your skin looking smooth, radiant, and healthy.

Is Dermaplaning/Dermablading Right for You?

Dermaplaning (or dermablading – remember, they’re the same thing!) offers impressive benefits for many people seeking smoother, brighter skin and enhanced product absorption. The immediate results and lack of downtime make it an attractive option in our busy world.

However, it’s not suitable for everyone. Those with active skin conditions, recent sunburn, or certain medical treatments should avoid this procedure. And the choice between professional and at-home treatments depends on your skin needs, budget, and comfort level.

If you’re new to dermaplaning, I recommend starting with a professional treatment. This allows you to experience the procedure under expert care and learn proper techniques before attempting it at home. Many clients find that a combination approach – professional treatments with at-home maintenance – provides the best balance of results and convenience.

Whatever you decide, remember that consistent, gentle skincare practices between treatments will help maintain your results and keep your skin looking its best. And always consult with a skincare professional if you have specific concerns about how dermaplaning might work with your unique skin type and conditions.

Have you tried dermaplaning or dermablading? What was your experience like? I’d love to hear about your skincare journey in the comments below!